Bonaire with children: what really works on an island without sandy beaches

Thinking about a trip to Bonaire with children? Then we will be honest right away: our island has no endless stretches of soft sand, and no big resorts with kids’ clubs and all-day entertainment. Even so, more and more families choose Bonaire on purpose. The leeward water along the west coast is often as smooth as glass, so children can get to know the reef here calmly and safely.

Sunwise Bonaire regularly welcomes families to the holiday homes we manage. In this blog we share what works in practice: what to pack from home and how to plan your days so toddlers and teens both have a good time.

Bonaire with children: set the right expectations

When people think of the Caribbean, they usually picture white beaches lined with palm trees. Bonaire is different. The coastline is mostly limestone, coral rubble and small coves. At some snorkel sites you enter the water via a few steps or over rocks. The east coast is rough and windy, so that is not where you swim with kids.

There is a lot to make up for it, though. At most sites the reef starts a few metres from shore, so you do not need a boat to see turtles, parrotfish and coral. The island is small and easy to navigate, which keeps drives short. And there are a few sandy spots where little ones can play:

• Sorobon at Lac Bay: a shallow lagoon on the east side, sheltered by the reef. The water stays shallow for a long way out, which suits young children.
• Klein Bonaire: the uninhabited islet off Kralendijk, reachable by water taxi. No Name Beach has soft sand. Bring your own shade and drinks, though, because there are no facilities.
• Te Amo Beach: a narrow strip of sand near the airport with shallow water. Kids also love the low-flying planes passing overhead.

Snorkelling with kids in calm leeward water

For families, the leeward coast is Bonaire’s biggest advantage. The trade wind blows almost constantly from the east, so the west coast lies in its shelter. Waves there are usually minimal and the water is clear. Even hesitant children soon dare to put their face in the water.

Along the coastal road you will see yellow stones painted with the names of dive and snorkel sites. Not every site suits families. Choose one with an easy entry and a stretch of shallow water before the reef drops off.

How to make the first snorkel trip a success

1. Practise first in water where your child can stand, so they get used to the mask and snorkel.
2. Go early in the morning, when the water is often calmest and the heat is still mild.
3. Let younger children wear a snorkel vest or life jacket, even if they swim well.
4. Stay close to shore and agree on a clear signal for heading back.
5. Teach kids never to touch or stand on coral, because it is alive and fragile.

The entire reef around the island belongs to the Bonaire National Marine Park, so snorkellers pay a nature fee too. On the website of STINAPA, the organisation that manages Bonaire’s national parks, you will find the current rules and tips on reef-friendly behaviour. Read them together with your kids.

Practical tips for Bonaire with children: feet, sun and water

A few simple items make the difference between a good beach day and tears after ten minutes. We recommend these to every family:

• Water shoes for everyone: coral rubble and sharp rocks at the entry hurt small feet. They also protect against the occasional sea urchin.
• Long-sleeved UV shirts: Bonaire lies close to the equator and the sun is strong all year round. The cooling trade wind means you barely feel it, which is why children burn so quickly here.
• Reef-safe sunscreen: choose a mineral formula without oxybenzone. Pay extra attention to necks, ears and the backs of legs, since those stay above water while snorkelling.
• Your own shade: many spots have no trees or umbrellas. A sturdy pop-up tent or a well-anchored beach umbrella is no luxury, especially in the constant wind.
• Plenty of water: tap water on Bonaire is desalinated seawater and safe to drink. Refill your bottles before you head out.

Spend the hottest hours (roughly eleven to three) indoors or in the shade. Many families snorkel in the morning, take a siesta after lunch and go back into the water in the late afternoon. According to our guests, that rhythm works best.

Nature outings kids enjoy

Away from the water, Bonaire has plenty for curious kids. Most outings are small-scale, so long queues are rare.

• Flamingo spotting: in the south, around the salt pans, groups of pink flamingos often wade through the shallows. You will regularly see them at Gotomeer in the north as well. Bring binoculars and keep your distance so the birds do not take off.
• The salt mountains: the white piles of salt near the salt pans look like snow. Combine them with a stop at the slave huts, so older children learn a little about the island’s history.
• Donkey Sanctuary: a refuge for donkeys that you drive through in your own car. Kids love it when a curious donkey pokes its head through the window. Check the current opening hours beforehand.
• Washington Slagbaai National Park: a rugged park in the north with cacti, iguanas and, if you are lucky, the yellow-shouldered amazon parrot, which locals call lora. The roads are unpaved, so a car with some extra ground clearance helps.
• Mangroves at Lac Bay: by kayak or on a guided tour, you paddle through the mangroves where young fish grow up. Older kids treat it as a real adventure.

Along the way you will see plenty of wildlife. Iguanas bask on walls, goats and donkeys wander by the roadside and bananaquits often flutter around at breakfast. These small yellow birds love sugar, so never leave the sugar bowl unattended on the terrace.

Why a holiday home beats a resort for families

Because the island has few large resorts with kids’ clubs, most families visiting Bonaire with children stay in a holiday home or apartment. In our view, that is often the smartest choice anyway, for these reasons:

• Your own kitchen: breakfast at your own pace, packed lunches for the beach and an early dinner for tired kids. The supermarkets in and around Kralendijk stock plenty of Dutch and American products, so picky eaters always find something.
• Room to relax: separate bedrooms, a living room and often a terrace give parents some peace while the little ones sleep.
• A steady routine: naps and early bedtimes are much easier to keep in a home than in a hotel room.
• Air conditioning: on warm nights, everyone sleeps better in a cool room.
• Flexibility: with a rental car and your own base, you decide when to leave and when to come back.

When booking, pay close attention to location. A central spot near Kralendijk or in Hato keeps drives to the supermarket, snorkel sites and restaurants short. As an example, see this sea-view holiday apartment with air conditioning in Hato.

Bonaire with children is less about building sandcastles all day and more about discovering things together. Pack water shoes, bring shade and keep a relaxed pace, and your kids may see their first turtle and spot wild flamingos. Questions about your trip? Send us an email or a message via our website.