Bonaire shore diving: a practical guide from locals

Ask divers why they keep coming back to Bonaire and most give the same answer: freedom. Bonaire shore diving means you pick a site, park next to a painted yellow stone, wade in and explore the reef at your own pace. No boat schedules, no crowded dive decks. Just you, your buddy and one of the healthiest reefs in the Caribbean.

At Sunwise we live and work on the island, and many of our guests come here to shore dive. Below we share what we have learned over the years: how shore diving works here, which sites we like best, and how to dive safely without damaging the reef.

Why Bonaire shore diving works so well

Bonaire calls itself ‘Divers Paradise’, and there is a reason for it. Most dive sites lie along the sheltered west coast, while the trade winds blow from the east. The water on the leeward side is therefore usually calm and clear, and you can enter straight from the beach or the rocky shoreline.

The reef also starts close to shore. At many sites you swim only a few dozen metres over a sandy shelf before the reef slopes down into the blue. You reach the reef quickly and save your air for the dive itself.

What sets the island apart:

• Protected waters: the Bonaire National Marine Park has protected the reef around the island since 1979, from the high-water line down to 60 metres.
• Easy access: dozens of marked dive sites line the coast, and you can reach most of them by car.
• Warm, clear water: temperatures are around 26 to 29°C all year, and visibility often exceeds 20 to 30 metres.
• Rich marine life: turtles, tarpon, frogfish, seahorses, moray eels and large schools of creole wrasse.
• Unlimited diving: with your own tanks you decide when, where and how often you dive, including at night.

How shore diving works on the island

Shore diving here is simple, but there are a few steps before your first dive. This is how a dive holiday usually starts.

1. Pay the nature fee. Every diver needs a valid nature tag from STINAPA, the foundation that manages the island’s parks. You can arrange it online via the official STINAPA Bonaire website, which also lists the current rates and park rules.
2. Attend an orientation. Before your first dive, you join a short briefing at a local dive shop about the marine park rules. Most shops also ask you to make a checkout dive on their house reef so you can fine-tune your weighting.
3. Rent a pickup truck. A pickup is the unofficial dive vehicle of Bonaire, because you can load tanks and wet gear in the back.
4. Collect your tanks. Many dive shops have drive-through tank stations, so you swap empty cylinders for full ones without unloading your gear.
5. Follow the yellow stones. Along the coastal roads, painted yellow rocks show the name of each dive site. Park, gear up and walk in.

Respect the marine park rules

The entire coastline is protected, so the rules are strict and rangers do check. They are easy to follow:

• Do not touch, stand on or collect anything, alive or dead.
• Leave your gloves at home, since recreational divers may not wear them.
• Keep your buoyancy under control and stay off the bottom.
• Use reef-safe sunscreen or, better yet, cover up with a rash guard.
• Never feed fish or chase turtles.

Our favourite shore dive sites

Our team keeps going back to a handful of sites. Here is a selection for Bonaire shore diving at different experience levels.

North of Kralendijk

The coastal road north of town leads to several of our favourite dives. 1000 Steps is a classic: there are actually about 67 limestone steps down to the beach, but after a dive with a tank on your back they feel like a thousand. Further north, Karpata has a steep wall with large coral formations. Andrea I and Andrea II are relaxed sites and good for a first dive. At Oil Slick Leap you giant-stride from a low cliff and climb back out via a ladder.

South of Kralendijk

Heading south, you pass the salt pans and their pink flamingos. The Salt Pier is known for its pillars covered in sponges and coral, and for the schools of fish that shelter in their shade. You may only dive here when no ship is docked, so check with your dive shop first. Nearby, the wreck of the Hilma Hooker lies on the sand between roughly 18 and 30 metres. It suits experienced divers best.

Washington Slagbaai National Park

For more remote diving, drive into Washington Slagbaai National Park in the north. At Boka Slagbaai and Playa Funchi you will often have the reef to yourself. The park has limited opening hours and bumpy dirt roads, so start early.

Practical tips from our team

These are the Bonaire shore diving tips we give our guests most often:

• Wear sturdy booties. Entries often cross coral rubble or ironshore, which is sharp and slippery.
• Check your entry and exit first. Pick a landmark so you can find your way out again after the dive.
• Leave no valuables in the car. Many regulars leave their pickup unlocked with the windows down, so nobody feels the need to break a window.
• Watch the weather. Westerly winds or swell occasionally bring waves to the normally calm west coast. On those days, choose a sheltered site or skip a dive.
• Avoid the east coast. The windward side is rough and exposed, and therefore not suitable for shore diving.
• Drink plenty of water. Sun and wind dry you out quickly, especially when you make several dives a day.
• Try a night dive. Many sites change completely after dark, with octopus, hunting tarpon and glowing plankton.

Where to stay for easy Bonaire shore diving

When you dive every day, where you stay matters. Ideally you are close to the northern dive sites, have space to rinse and dry your gear, and have somewhere to relax between dives.

That is why we often recommend Hato, a quiet residential area just north of Kralendijk. From here, Andrea I and 1000 Steps are a short drive away, and the shops and restaurants of town are close by too. Our stylish Bon Bida Trupial holiday home with a shared pool in Hato, for example, has a modern interior and a pool for lazy afternoons.

Pack your logbook, rent a pickup and follow the yellow stones. And if you want to know which dive site our team likes best right now, send us an email.